RADHEKRISHNA
BADARI YATRA
It is undoubtedly the grace of God and the merits of past janamas that the desire to visit the Himalayas - the deva bhoomi of the world, arises in our heart. The great Himalayas which hosts numerous mahathmas in its heart is undoubtedly fascinating in every way. It is full of mysteries still unrevealed to the mankind. The deeper we get to know of the Himalayas the more attracted we get towards it. So it was a great sweet surprise for us when the proposal to visit Badari came to us suddenly without any prior plan. Bhagavan had planned it so well that our elder daughter had to shift her quarters from Chennai to Delhi in March -10.
As we were invited to Delhi for a visit by her the idea of going to Badari, Brindavan etc automatically cropped up in our minds. (of course the culprit is none other than the little Kicha) As a result the Delhi visit was welcomed with more interest from our part. Initially we planned to make the tour alone. But as per the divine plan more people were to join us and ultimately we found 6 more joining us at Delhi after hearing about our intention of this pilgrimage. So after discussion it was mutually decided to start the tour from Haridwar on 6th of September and so all were expected to reach Haridwar by at least 5th night.
As we had reached Delhi a week before we thought it better that the two of us should reach Haridwar earlier for making arrangements of our conveyance stay etc. We discussed our plans with our friends in Trivandrum who had made the visit earlier and were more experienced. It was ultimately decided that we should start our pilgrimage from Rishikesh itself. 4 members of the party wanted to visit Kedar too while 4 of us were not keen in Kedar visit for obvious reasons. So we thought it fine to visit Badari first and while the other party finishes Kedar, we could finish seeing around Rishikesh and Haridwar and they would join us back from Kedar before proceeding to Brindavan.
Accordingly we started from Delhi on 4th Saturday night 9-30pm from S.Rohilla station by Mussouri Exp. The journey was comfortable and we reached Haridwar at sharp 5-50 as scheduled. We got out of the station and hired an autoriksha (Rs/300) from there to take us to Rishikesh Sivananda ashram. We had arranged online for our accommodation at the ashram itself as suggested by our friends.
The Divine Life Society
P.O. Shivanandanagar-249 192
Dt. Tehri-Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India
Phone: +91-135-2430040/2431190
Fax: +91-135-2442046
We reached the ashram by 7-15, after meeting the reception-in-charge swamiji we were allotted a room at Sathsangh bhavan and the key was handed over. The Sivananda ashram lies on the banks of river Ganges on the slopes of a mountain in a very serene atmosphere purified by many mahans by their presence. First we had to encounter a climb of about 87 steps to reach the main entrance of the ashram. From there we have to climb a few more steps again to reach the bhajan hall. From the hall a small climb to reach the dining hall and from there we had to still climb up to reach our quarters. What a beautiful way of uplifting downtrodden souls like us!!!!!!
As we were not mature enough to understand the noble idea behind this we gaped up in awe as to how to carry ourselves with our luggage up and reach our room. Suddenly a cheerful,young swamiji along with some bhakthas entering the ashram with a pleasant smile offered his helping hand at us which was followed by more hands. In no time we found our luggage going up bubbling while we were a bit slow in pulling our body up. At last with gasps and puffs we reached in front of the dining room. The group apologetically took leave of us as they would miss their breakfast if they were late. The swamiji also advised us to keep the luggage out somewhere and hurry to the dining hall since the breakfast session closes by 7-30.
Slow as we were, by the time we entered the dining hall it was all over. We were coming down the steps to collect our luggage when another swamiji met us on the way with an instant question ‘did you get breakfast?’. We didnt know who that swamiji was but he had guessed from our appearance that we were new to that place. When we said that we were late by a few minutes he asked us to follow him. He took us to a small side room and he himself brought some idlis with sambhar and chutney for us. We thankfully had our breakfast and he let us out with a warning to be back for lunch sharp at 11 am. We thanked him and collecting our luggage we moved towards our room.
The room was very comfortable, neat, and nice with all the comforts one would need. We took bath got ready and climbed down to meet swamiji – Swami Padmanabhananda, who was the general secretary. We enquired with somebody who told us that we could meet swamiji at the bhajan hall. As we neared the hall we could hear clearly ashtapathy being sung by somebody. We were excited to hear ashtapathy and entered the hall. To our surprise a group from Delhi was conducting sampradaya Radha Kalyanam that day there. We happily joined the function. As I was familar with the songs I was only happy to sing along with them. Noticing this one man from the troup approached me and called me to do muthu kuthal etc along with some other ladies. I was thrilled at this. He also asked me where my husband was. I beckoned him, who was standing near the entrance. He came inside and the mama now asked us whether we could do Kanyadanam of Radha devi. Our joy knew no bounds at the unexpected shower of blessings from Radha devi. Isn’t it a great privilege one can wish for?
Both of us were seated in front and I had the great prevelege of pouring water over the coconut, thampoolam, thirumangalyam etc. which my husband was holding in a plate to finish the kanyadanam ceremony. I closed my eyes and invoked Radha devi’s blessings falling at her lotus feet again and again. This moment can never be forgotten. I inwardly prostrated at the feet of my Guru too without whose blessings nothing would have happened. Then Swamy Padmanabhananda general Secretary of the ashram explained about kanyadanam and its importance etc. to the audience gathered there. After that mangalya dharanam’ was conducted with a rain of flowers over Krishna and Radha. We prostrated before Bhagavan and then swamiji who handed over the coconut, some fruits etc as prasadam. The coconut was to be taken with us to our home. We chatted with swamiji and the bhajan group for some time. We learnt that the leader was the younger brother of Delhi Subbarama bhagavathar who was the guru of Bombay Harimama. That was a pleasant surprise for us. Then we went to the dining hall for lunch along with those people.
After tea we strolled out to the reception and with the help of the swamiji there booked 2 cars for taking us to Badari the next day. Then we went around the Guru Kutir, and the banks of Ganges. Sivanand jhoola is a hanging bridge constructed by the government of India across the river Ganges in memory of Swami Sivanandaji maharaj. The bridge starts from below the ashram to Swargashram which is on the other side of the river. Swargashram is the samadhi sthal of mahan Baba Kala kambliwala. He was a great saint wandering on the banks of the Ganges naked but for his loin cloth. In those times visiting Badari and Kedar were real tasks to be accomplished. People who set out for that pilgrimage seldom returned. This saint started helping such pilgrims by giving black blankets, walking stick, and food free of cost. He set up ashrams at different places on the way too. So he was called Baba Kala kambliwala! He also built a mandir for Lord Shiva nearby after his successful visit to Badari , Kedar and return. We saw Swargashram and Gita bhavan which is also on the banks of the river. In Haridwar and Rishikesh we can find numerous ashrams on both sides of the river. These ashrams provide free accommodation, food etc for sadhus (sanyasins). Long ques of swamijis standing outside many ashrams for morning and evening food is a common sight here. The ochre robe commands great respect among the people of Northern India.
We walked back to the ashram in time as we were expecting the other members of the pilgrimage by evening. We had arranged rooms for them too in the same building where we were staying. After they reached we hurriedly took them to the dining hall leaving their luggage downstairs sathsang bhavan. After finishing dinner we came back picked the luggage and climbed upstairs to our rooms. We dispersed for the night with a plan to start next day after finishing our breakfast at the ashram.
Morning we attended arathi at the Shiva temple in the ashram at 6-45 and went for our breakfast. As soon as we finished breakfast our cars had arrived at the front gate of Sathsangh bhavan. We loaded our luggage in the respective cars and started off with loud ‘JAI BOLO BADRI VISHAL BHAGAVAN KI JAI’ cries. The time was 7-30 am. The climate was pleasant and sky too was clear. Both the cars moved on smoothly. The scenery was very picturesque and we enjoyed the ride singing bhajans and chanting throughout. As the road climbs uphill the speed of the car too was very moderate. By 10-30 we reached Deva Prayag, where the two rivers Bhagirathi and Alakananda meet.
Devaprayaga – Kandamenum Kadinagar.
We reached the first prayag – Deva prayag by around 10-30 am. All of us got down from the car and we had to walk some distance crossing the river over a bridge to reach the prayag ghat. We were all very excited by the sight of the ghat and temple from this end of the river. The water was very cold. All of us took a dip holding hands at the confluence spot itself. After the holy bath and offering of oblations by the menfolk we proceeded to Raghunathji temple. This temple falls among the 108 Divya Desams. Sri Periyazhvar has sung 10 pasurams on this Lord. Knowing all these I was very particular that we should visit this temple. With God’s grace we were in time before the closing time.
It is believed that it was in this place that Bhagavan came as lord Vamana and begged 3 feet of land from King Mahabali. It is situated 71 kms away from Rishikesh. According to puranas Brahma did penance here to get blessings from Lord Vishnu before starting creation. Legends say that a maharashtrian brahmin got boon from Lord Narayana that Lord Raghunath, after his victory over Lanka should come to Devaprayag and stay forever in the temple. There are inscriptions that indicate that the temple is more than 2000 yrs old. But Sri Periyazhvar’s pasurams take its origin further back as far as 5000 yrs. We can even now see two of the ten pasurams inscribed in Tamil in the sanctum.
A flight of stairs from the banks of the confluence lead towards the temple courtyard. The climb is a bit steep. Our excitement mounted as we reached the top and as we didn’t know how to enter inside we did circumbulation of the temple first and finally we reached the main entrance. As we entered the sight was stunning. No words can describe it. I was totally taken off my feet. True to His name he looked ‘Neelamegha Perumal’ only. His eyes – oh what to say about those expressive glittering lotus eyes! One would fall in love with Him at the first sight itself. His cheeks are chubby and tempting. His beautiful smile is the highlight – very similar to Kanachi Varadan’s betwitching smile. Lord Raghunath greets us in full battle dress along with his consort Sita matha. No words can express our feelings on seeing the Lord. He is majestic at the same time very handsome. Matha is called Pundarikavalli Nachiyar. I was thrilled to the core and over whelmed at the mercy of the Lord. We can see picture of Raghunathji in web sites. But the truth is those pictures do not at all do any justice to his real appearance.
Devaprayag
General Information
Nearest Airport : Jolly Grant 87 Km
. Nearest Rail : Rishikesh 71 Km
. Accommodation : TA Tourist Rest House, Pwd Inspection Bungalow, Dharamshalas and Private Hotels are available.
As we came out of the temple we called Guruji. I couldn’t talk more than 2 or three words as I became emotional. My husband then talked with guruji and told me that Guruji has asked us to prostrate before the Lord on his behalf. So we again prostrated in front of the lord and then started down the steps. When we reached our cars news of a great landslide on the way to Srinagar was waiting for us. Srinagar was the next station on our route. We were in a fix. The drivers said that nobody could predict when the roads would become ok and when we could start as the road was completely washed out. The question before us was whether we had to wait there indefinitely till the road was ready or we had to go back. We didnt know what to decide. Just then sms from guruji came in my mobile. The gist of it was - ‘If you confront any problem in your life, try to find out the hidden blessing in it’. The timing was very apt. The message boosted our confidence. When we enquired further we came to know about another route to Srinagar which was 45 kms longer than the normal route. We agreed to pay the driver the excess amount for the distance and immediately we started. We reached the otherside of the landslide in Srinagar by about 3-30. Luckily we got rice, curd, pickle etc from a small joint there and again proceeded. Now the chances of our reaching Pipalkoti or Joshimutt was very remote. So we decided to proceed as far as we could.
On the way we saw Rudraprayag which is the confluence of Alakananda and Mandakini. According to the puranas sage Narada pleased Lord Shiva with his penance. Lord Shiva as Rudra gave him Ragas and Raginis, musical notes which are the base of Indian music. There is a temple of Rudranath in this place. We just passed that way and didn't stop there as already we had lost some time due to the road block.
Nearest Rail : Rishikesh 144 Km.
Accommodation : A Tourist Rest House, Pwd Inspection Bungalow, Dharamshalas and Private Hotels are available.
Karnaprayag and Gowri temple
The next prayag enroute is Karnaprayag. 33 kms from Rudraprayag the two rivers Pindar or Karnaganga and Alakananda meet here. Pindar arises from the Pindar glacier and as it enters Garhwal is named as Karnaganga. It is said that Karna made the Pindar river come and meet Alakananda here. A temple dedicated to goddess Uma the daughter of Himalayas is called Karnamandir.
General Information
Nearest Rail : Rishikesh 173 Km.
Accommodation : A Tourist Rest House, Temple Committee Guest House, Dharamshalas and Private Hotels are available.
By 7pm. we reached Nandaprayag which was the next prayag enroute. The drivers took us to a spot from where we could take photos of the prayag. But as it was already dark nobody could take any pictures. We could see the confluence of the rivers Alakananda and Nandakini or Mandakini which flows from a glacier near Nanda Devi peak. Legends say King Nanda did penance here. From the website we came to know that there is a temple of Gopalji here but on reaching there we were a bit disappointed as there was no proper temple as such except a private one of a person who runs a lodge there. From one or two websites we came to know that this place is supposed to be one of the 108 Divyadesams, called Thirupirithi, sung by Thirumankai azhvar. But according to some other sites it is Joshimutt that is sung by the azhvar as Thirupirithi. Anyway we couldn't find any deity of Seshasayanam at Nandaprayag. We stayed at the lodge run by the pujari of Gopalji temple. The room is neat with a water heater in the bathroom and very reasonable too. The only problem is we have to climb up a few steps from the road to reach the place. Nearby there were many small hotels but the food we got there was horrible. The night stay was very comfortable.
Morning by 6am. everybody was ready. We started with prayers. Throughout the journey we kept singing ashtapathy in our car. We passed Pipalkoti and finally reached Joshimutt. The driver was not in a mood to stop there it seemed for he said that the temple was in another route and we cant go there etc. But gods grace was such that as we were passing through the temple road with guru kripa suddenly I recognised the arch in front of the temple and asked him to stop the car. The temple is near the Joshimutt gate and as the gate would be closed in a few minutes he crossed the gate and stopped the car a few yards further. We got out and walked back to the temple. The Joshimutt gate is opened at fixed timings to let vehicles from one side pass for about an hour. Then the other side vehicles are allowed to cross. Luckily we were the last vehicles to cross the gate.
There was not much crowd at the temple and we had very good darsan. The pujari explained in Tamil that it was Thirupirithi. I enquired about the Ananthasayana Perumal referred to be the deity of Thiruppirithi. Then he took a small Ananthasayana moorthy from somewhere behind and showed us. Anyway we were not fully convinced that it was Thirupirithi. The pujari gave us thirtham, prasadam etc. We proceeded further.
The next place in our agenda was Vishnuprayag. The driver stopped the car by the prayag and we all got out of the cars. Vishnu prayag is the confluence of Alakananda and Nandadevi rivers. We have to climb down some steps to reach the river. We all got down washed our feet and face, collected water in bottles and then proceeded.
Few kilometers from there we reached Yogadhyana Badri or Pandukeshvar as it is presently called. This falls under the Pancha Badris. The car stopped on the main road to Badri and we got out. We have to climb down about ½ km to reach the temple. Here also the deity is Badrinarayana. During winter when the main temple closes the deity of Uddhava is brought here and kept for the 6 mths till the temple reopens. There was nobody around and silence prevailed all over. We had darsan and climbed back.
A few kilometers ahead we again had to encounter a road block due to landslide. The road was completely washed out by flash floods and stones were spread over the flowing water so that vehicles can pass over. We waited for about an hour there for the makeshift road to be ready.
It was totally a new experience to ride in a car over the stones. All of us chanted aloud and we crossed the water and finally reached the road. But again a few meters ahead stones were falling from atop. We were stopped there and were watching a landslide happening in front of us. We waited there for about an hour till it was safe to cross and the road cleared of stones. When the clearance came our cars started moving. As the two cars were passing suddenly we saw stones falling from atop again. The first car luckily crossed it but we were behind. So we were signalled to stop and had to reverse back in a hurry to a safe distance. There was thick silence in our car. We could see the other car moving much ahead through the mountain roads. After about an hour we were let to cross the danger zone. We were relieved and thanked Bhagavan for taking us safe.
Finally we reached Badari, by 2-30 pm. We got in touch with Swami Rishikesananda who lives in Badari introduced to us by our friends. He was waiting for our call and reached where we were waiting. He advised us to have our lunch from a nearby hotel. After lunch swamiji took us straight to Mana a few kms climb from Badari. Mana is an important place visited by Badari pilgrims. Vehicle goes up to a certain level and then there is a trek of 3 kms from there. We can see Vyasa guha and Ganesha guha here. Sage Vyasa sitting in this cave wrote Sri Bhagavatham. Lord Ganesa who agreed to help him in taking down the verses placed a condition before Vyasa that at any time he would not wait for the next verse even for a minute. Sage Vyasa agreed to that but in turn placed his condition before him. Ganesa should note down the verse only after imbibing the meaning of it. Lord Ganesa had to ponder over the verse before noting it down and that time was enough for Sage Vyasa to recite the next verse!! Both of them were in different guhas in seperate places which shows that the communication was heart to heart only.
Further down we went to Bhim phul – a bridge of rock made by Bhima for Draupathi to cross the river Saraswathy on their Mahaprasthana. The view is breath taking. We can see river Saraswathy gushing out with full force somewhere out of a gap in a rock. There is a very small temple for Goddess Saraswathy on its side. We took some photographs of the place and collected water from the river.
The granite path further leads upwards. It is said to be the way the Pandavas went to their mahaprasthana. Only few people trek through the path to reach the sacred place Sathopanth as the trek becomes tougher and tougher. (We got a cd of the Sathopanth yatra in which the whole route is shown clearly.) We walked back to our cars with a sense of satisfaction after visiting Mana.
Swami Rishikesanandaji had arranged rooms for us in a good lodge in Badari. We checked into our rooms and got ready immediately and started for the temple as it was time for Sahasranama archana. All of us bought tickets for archana and stood in the que to be let into the temple. The darsan was heart filling. We were made to sit in the wide corridor in front of the sanctum and Sahasranama archana was chanted through mike. All of us joined the chanting as we were all provided with an archana book with the tickets. We were extremely happy that we could sit in front of Lord Badarinarayana till the chanting was over. Those were moments of elation. In the sanctum we can see Kubera, Garuda, Lord Badrinarayana, sage Narada, Uddhava, Nara, and Narayana. Bhagavan is adorned with various jewels and a gold crown on his head. Bhagavan is carefully covered with woollen blankets due to the extreme cold there. After the archana one by one we moved to the front collected prasadam, and did prostration in front of the deity. Outside, the temple of Mahalakshmi is situated. There is no deity as such but a Salagrama moorthy of Lakshmi is decorated and worshipped there. We moved on to the utsavamoorthy of Bhagavan Badarinarayanan, Nara Narayana deities, and Ghantakarna.
This utsava moorthy is taken to Joshimutt when the temple closes after 6 months puja. The next 6 months are for the devas to offer their oblations. The Moorthy of Uddhava is taken to Pandukeshvar temple near Joshimutt and kept there for the next 6 months. The temple remains closed at that time. The whole area will be covered with ice. Normally no human beings live there during the severe winter. But there are some saints who dare to spend the severe cold winter in Badari itself. The locals have great respect for the sanyasins there and they provide them with accommodation, and necessary ration for that period, free of cost. It is said that a single lamp inside the sanctum filled with some medicated ghee, specially prepared is left alight when the temple closes after Diwali. The temple is opened usually after akshaya thrithiya in the month of April or May. They say till now when the temple is reopened the lamp keeps burning. Miraculous are the ways of Lord.
The main pujari of the temple hails from Kerala Nampoothiri family. He is called Rawal. He is the most powerful person in the region almost like a king. Even local disputes used to be settled by the Rawal only. Now slowly there are changes happening in the system. The Rawal said he can continue in his position as long as he can, provided he does not miss even one of his 5 daily baths. Daily the Rawal has to take 5 baths to do the pujas. They don't miss the bath even when they have severe fever. If for some reasons one single bath is missed that moment he ceases to be the Rawal. The next one is already selected as trainee and retained at Badari. He automatically becomes the next Rawal.
There are actually Pancha Badari temples. The one we visited is called Vishal Badri. It got its name from the King who built the temple when it was consecrated by Adi Sankara. They say before that Bhagavan was in Aadi Badri which is a few kms away from Govinda ghat. Near Joshimutt there is Vridha Badari which is also supposed to be an old temple. Then on the way to Badri from Joshimutt we can see Yogadhyana Badri or Pandukeshvar as it is called now. The Bhavishya Badri is much south to the present Badri temple. They say that when the Nara and Narayana parvatha come close together in a few years the path to the present Badri will be closed and then Bhagavan will be worshipped in Bhavishya Badri.
Swami Rishikesananda took us to Rawal’s quarters to meet him. We spent some time there asking about various things. Then we handed over coins, dry fruits, and other offerings we had brought to the assistant to be offered to Bhagavan. Then we came out, had dinner at a hotel and retired to our rooms. By this time the cold was unbearable for me. But the menfolks were feeling alright. Next morning 3 of us ladies got up at 3-45 am, taking a pair of dress, tooth brush etc. went to taptha kund which is situated just beside the temple. Taptha kunds are hot water springs situated in the icy atmosphere. There are separate kunds for men and women. For women the kund is enclosed. Various mugs are provided there. Steaming hot water comes from the taptha kund in that severe cold. It is really a miraculous sight. We can take hot water in a mug and brush our teeth in the channel provided for that purpose. Those who dare can enter the water. Others can take bath on the shore with the help of the mugs. The water is so hot that it seems to burn through the skin. After bath carrying our wet clothes in plastic bags we went to the temple and waited there for Nirmalya darsan. Already there were people who had finished their bath circumbulating the temple. There was slight drizzle. But they braved that and were keen with their exercise un-mindful of the cold. We couldnt but adore them from a distance. When the door opened by 4-30 we entered and had Nirmalya darsan which was my dream of a long time. I thanked the lord profusely again and again for this great gift. We are not allowed to stand at one place but asked to keep moving. We kept going round the temple again and entered the sanctum. By this system everybody gets a chance of darsan. At 5am the Rawal walked in and started removing the alankaram or decorations over the deity. Luckily we got a corner place near the door from where we could stand and see everything without moving out.
It is indeed great fortune to see the Salagrama moorthy of Lord Badarinarayana as such. Wow! I can never forget those moments. The deity is swayambhoo salagrama moorthy, not made by humans. In the course of time the deity was some how immersed in Alakananda. When aadi Sankara visited Badari he recovered the deity from the waters and consecrated it here. Bhagavan shines beautifully with his serene looks. He is in a posture of penance. We can see his two arms holding Shankhu – the conch, and Chakra – the disc. The other two hands are kept on his lap in Padmasana posture. Oil is applied over the deity from top to bottom and then different abhishekams are done. The thirtha for abhishekam is taken from the taptha kund only. After abhishekam bhagavan is dried with a new cloth daily. Then he is worn with valkalam – a cloth made of plant skin. Over that a silk dress is worn and different jewels adorned including the golden crown which shines brightly. Then He is covered with a beautiful woollen rug for protection from the heavy cold climate.
Although wild tulsi garlands are most common there there is a special garland made of dhaman which is available in the Himalayas only. We can buy any number of tulsi garlands but not this dhaman. We were immersed in the seventh heaven watching everything. A pundit keeps explaining everything in Hindi through mike for everybody’s sake. After abhisheka each and every moorthy is shown to the bhaktas one by one while the pundit goes explaining about it. Finally we were blessed to see Bhagavan’s golden padukas embedded with stones. This may not be the original one brought by Uddhava 5000 years back, for this one is very small. But the feeling that it represents Bhagavan krishna’s padukas sends tremors through our body. After the arathi was over everyone was given theertha, prasada of tulsi, chandan etc. We were thrilled to receive it.
We got outside the sanctum and saw others coming in. After darsan all of us went to have breakfast. We were offered lunch at the Rawal’s place that day. After breakfast Swamiji Rishikesananda offered to take us to see Sripadam which is about 3 kms above Badari temple. There is only a trekking path which is steep and difficult he said. Anyway I wanted very much to go there. Unexpectedly my husband also volunteered to come. That was a nice surprise for me as we knew that he was not all that fit to make that trip. But swamiji gave us courage and first took us to his room. He gave both of us two cane dands or sticks to help us in the climb. It was drizzling when we started. So we bought two cheap rain coats made of plastic to protect us from the rains. Then we started our climb with swamiji. Due to the rains the path was slippery and sometimes very steep. Mid way there is a shed for rest. I rested there for 5 mts. This place is not very commonly known to people. Only local sanyasis or devotees visit here. Uddhava on his way to Badari while bringing Bhagavan’s padukas, stopped here for a while, kept the padukas over a rock and offered puja there. The mark of Bhagavan’s feet can be clearly seen on the rock. So it is considered to be a very sacred spot. Those who have the will and health must visit this place and have darsan.
In about an hour we reached the place some how. We fell at the Sripadam and touched it. I broke down while touching the Sripadam by the grace showered on us by the Lord. We curcumbulated the rock twice very slowly and carefully. The rains were still going on. We started back our climb down. Climbing down was very much difficult for me. My knees became stiffer and stiffer. The cane stick that swamiji gave us was very helpful for me. I managed to reach down taking water from springs on the way to refresh myself. But the cold was telling on me. Reaching down swamiji took us to his room and switched on his sona belt for me. The warmth was very soothing for me. Meanwhile my husband and swamiji went around and distributed sweets to other swamijis as it was Swamy Sivananda jayanthy. By the time I had warmed myself. We returned to the room and with all the others proceeded to the Rawal’s place for the promised lunch of nivedyam. It is great fortune indeed to taste bhagavan Badarinath’s prasadam. We were greatly blessed by that !!
We returned to our rooms to pack and get ready to go. To our extreme surprise the driver came there with the news that there was a great block some 8kms ahead of the route and no vehicle was coming from that side. Almost all the vehicles that had arrived the previous day had left in the morning itself. Only one or two vehicles remained. Now we had no choice but stay back there – Badrinarayan’s will prevails !
Mysterious are the ways of Bhagavan in showering His blessings. We might wonder why certain things happened that way. We can never understand His ways. Suddenly we found all our programs totally changed. We had planned our pilgrimage in such a way that after finishing Badari one group should go to Rishikesh and the other group should proceed to Kedar. At last from Haridwar both the groups were to join to proceed towards Brindavan. Accordingly all of us had booked our return tickets too from Delhi. All of us were only too happy to stay back when the news of the road block came. Bhagavan Badarinarayanan was the cause of our happy mood undoubtedly.
Evening again we went to temple. The crowd had thinned as no further vehicles were coming to Badari. We were delighted to have good darsan. As there was not much crowd all had hastle free entry inside the temple. We returned to our rooms after dinner. As all our mobile phones did not work there everybody went to a public booth to make calls. As we very much wanted to inform guruji about this situation we tried to contact guruji from there many times but we couldnt get the line. Next morning also the three of us (ladies) took bath in the taptha kund and saw nirmalyam and abhishekam comfortably. All of us were overwhelmed by the grace of Badarinarayanan when we received the oil, the chandan, the thirtha, etc, applied over Badarinathan’s deity. When we came out others also had come for the darsan. After that all of us had breakfast and returned to our rooms.
The drivers were waiting there with the news that it was better to go and wait on the way till the road was cleared. We agreed and by 8-15 we started from Badari with loud cries of ‘Jai bolo Badri vishal bhagavan ki’ and the drivers too joined us in shouting ‘Jai’. After about ½ hr, we reached the spot of the road block. This time we got out of the car and waded through the water to the other side of the block and waited on the roade side for 4 hrs till our cars reached after the road was relaid. The scenery was beautiful though we could see the disastrous face of mother nature. Nobody felt irritated waiting there on the road for such a long time. But after much discussion the second party who had plans to go to Kedar dropped the idea fearing worse road conditions on way. At last we started and as we had lost much time on the road we could reach upto Rudraprayag only by 7-30 pm. Usually vehicles are not allowed to go after 8pm. So we found accommodation in a hotel there and spent the night there. All of us were ready early morning and proceeded from the place. Unfortunately just 3 kms from the place we were stopped as there was a road block some 15 kms ahead. They had put barricades on the road to prevent vehicles going through. A few yards from that place we could see a hotel. So we all moved there and had our breakfast.
For another 4 hrs we were stranded there. By that time a huge row of vehicles had formed behind ours. As we were casually chatting with some locals we came to know that a road from that place goes to Kedar. On enquiry with some vehicle which came from that side we came to know that the road was ok upto Sonaprayag and that from there they will have to trek to Gowrikund. On second thought they decided to proceed as planned earlier and the second car left for Kedar along with swami Rishikesananda who was with us from Badari. We waited for some more time and were at our wits end. Because as time passes we would have to find some accommodation again for that night. At last the cars were allowed to go.
We reached Srinagar by noon and were told that there were three or four blocks enroute Rishikesh. Then somebody said that there is a detour of 140kms through which we can reach Rishikesh by at least midnight. The road is through mountains and there was the risk of travelling by night etc. But as we had no other choice we had to opt for that. The route was through dense forests with lots of climbs and falls. As dusk neared visibility also decreased due to heavy fog. By 7-30 as we were encountering a steep climb we couldnt see even one foot ahead. We were frantically chanting and praying to Bhagavan. More over the driver warned us that it would be safe if we could cross the forest area before night as there was the risk of wild animals crossing the road too. But the driver was very smart and kept the car moving with complete confidence. By 8-30 we had reached the plains. We came through Paudi, Kotdwar, Haridwar and then Rishikesh. Actually by this round about way we had reached far ahead of Rishikesh and now we had to turn back to go there. We joined the Delhi Meerut road somewhere and from there proceeded to Haridwar. There we had something for dinner and left immediately. We couldnt believe ourselves when we saw that it was only 10-30 when we reached Sivananda Ashram Rishikesh. As we had informed them earlier itself that we are coming they opened the gate for us. Thanking the Lord profusely we settled into the comforts of our rooms.
Next day morning we decided to make a visit to Vasishta guha. It is about 24 kms from Rishikesh on Badari route. This cave is where Sage Vasishta did penance. Many saints have been here since. Swamy Purushothamanandapuri maharaj, a sanyasi of the Ramakrishna Paramhamsa order, belonged to Thiruvalla in Kerala. After taking sanyasa during his parivrajaka time he came here and at last settled in this cave itself. Later an ashram was set up here. Now his disciple swami Chaithanyananda puri maharaj is running the ashram taking care of the cave etc. The cave is on the banks of Ganges and the place is stunningly beautiful. The atmosphere is serene and calm. From the gate on the road we have to encounter a steep climb down of winding stairs leading to the ashram. As we reached the ashram by noon the swamiji had just retired. But seeing us he called us in. Swamiji also belongs to Kerala and was very enthusiastic to converse with us in Malayalam. We had satsangh with him for about 1½ hours. As it was getting late we got up to see around the place. We got down to Ganges washed our feet and face, then went up to see the temple, then came to the cave. The iron gate fixed at the entrance is opened by 3-30 and then visitors allowed in for some time. It was pitch dark and silent inside. We slowly edged forward in a curve and suddenly two lighted lamps and a shivalinga came visible to us at about 20ft ahead. We could see 2 or 3 devotees sitting and meditating resembling statues.
The experience was electrifying for us. We can feel very good vibrations inside. I felt excitement all over. To get into the cave where the great sage Vasishta had done penance is no small matter. I gently touched and felt over.the side walls of the caves. Oh Krishna! Great fortune indeed for this simple jiva! I felt I should spend at least 2 to 3 hrs inside the cave with our guruji to experience the atmosphere there. Reluctantly we had to get out. We reached Rishikesh just at dinner time. Next day we decided to visit some important places in Haridwar and come back. We booked an auto and started. But torrential rains started and when we reached Haridwar the roads were flooded. Moreover winches for Mansa devi and Chandi devi were also stopped due to the heavy down pour. So we were forced to drop the idea and return without going anywhere. The Kedar party joined us at Rishikesh by evening.
Evening as we had no particular programme my husband was strolling as the rains stopped. As he was wandering near the Sivananda ashram ghat he saw, in the little garden by the side of the river two Krishna deities which somebody had discarded there. One was of terracota and another of wood. He felt they were beckoning him to take them home. He couldnt resist the temptation and with the permission of the swamiji there took them in his hands. He bathed them in Ganges and took them to the room informing me through the phone. He came up with them one way while I ran down to see them through another way. We missed each other. Reaching the ghat I saw he had left and ran back to the room full of excitement. The two little Krishnas were very cute and lively. Then all of us attended bhajan that evening at Guru Kutir. The session was very nice. One man sang Kabir ke dohe and a woman sang a song on Radha. Both melted our hearts.
After dinner we came back to our room. Then we placed the two Krishnas on the room shelf and invited everybody to have a look. We sang bhajans and offered apple pieces as nivedyam. After that they were packed in a cloth and put to sleep. That night I couldnt sleep with excitement and happiness. Morning I woke them up with Thiruppavai and offered toffee and biscuits. They accepted that and then were shown arathi with a candle which too was accepted readily. After that they were packed carefully. Then we left for Haridwar with our luggage. We had earlier arranged for our accommodation at Abheda Ganga mayya trust with Swamiji Narayanananda. We were given warm welcome there.
We had to reschedule all our plans as we had lost much of time on the roads from Badari. So it was decided that we proceed to Brindavan as planned earlier and the other party would go back to Delhi. So the menfolk went out to book our tickets etc. Meanwhile we had some time with the Mathaji at the ashram. She was very warm and friendly. There was a group of ladies who had come from Palghat to stay in the ashram for about a month reading Bhagavatham. As I casually enquired with them if there was any ghat near by for us to take bath in Ganges one lady volunteered to take us to a very special ghat a km away from the ashram. We all agreed to walk and proceeded to that place by 3-30. The place is called Neela dhara ganga. It is very special in the sense that sanyasins and mahathmas when they leave their mortal coils are put here for jalasamadhi. She said the place is full of good vibrations and they come there daily morning to meditate on the banks. The force of water was very much due to the heavy rains but we some how managed to take a dip holding somebodys hands.Throughout this trip Bhagavan showered his grace by taking us to such places through somebody or other. We cant express how grateful we are to Him.
Evening all of us visited some places in Haridwar and by 5-45 reached Hari ki paudi for witnessing the great Ganga arathi. We made offerings at the ghat to Ganga matha. River Ganga forms the very base of the people there. They have immense faith in Ganga matha. She starts as Bhageerathi from Gangothri and as she rolls on meets with many other rivers which ultimately becomes the unique Ganga after Devaprayag. The changes in her form from the top of the Himalayas through many stages is really fantastic to see. She is very attractive, cool, gentle and ferocious at the same time. She has seen and met a numerous mahathmas on her bed and flows as a witness of everything. I feel sprinkling her holy waters on our heads and taking a few drops inside is great bhagyam.
We attended evening bhajans at the ashram after Ganga arathi. Night we had sumptuous dinner there. We were starting from there that night itself. Our hearts were full of emotions then. Turning back we wonder how this trip was done in such a beautiful way. Everything was beyond us. We could feel the divine hands leading us throughout. As per plan one party took the night bus for Delhi while four of us took a taxi for proceeding to Brindavan. As per our original plan we had to return from Badari on 9thth and proceed to Brindavan on 11th. We had informed Babaji earlier itself about our visit and he had promised to meet us there at Brindavan. Now the Lord had planned out program in such a way that we started on 13th night from Haridwar, landed in Brindavan on 14th and attended Radha ashtami at Barsana on 15th ! A great fortune anybody would covet ! Can we ever thank Krishna for this great blessing showered on us?
Before concluding I would like to state a few general things which may be useful for pilgrims who intend to make this trip. Those who want to go should completely surrender to the Lord and pray for the successful completion of the trip. Without Bhagavan’s grace the Himalayas would not let anybody in.
Many people get stranded halfway due to unexpected landslides etc. At times will have to drop the idea itself and return. So full dedication is needed.
1. First of all one has to be flexible in his program as Himalayas is always unpredictable.
2. One should be prepared to adjust in matters as food, accommodation, climate etc. We can never
guarantee good food and good accommodation there. So too the sudden rains. It depends on our luck
only.
3. Woollen wears such as sweaters, caps, socks, gloves are a must in this trip.
4. It is also advisable to carry general medicines for common ailments.
One of the very important places to visit in this region is the Valley of flowers, which is a natural
garden of variety of flowers and is worth seeing. But one will have to trek or go by horse about 14kms
up.
garden of variety of flowers and is worth seeing. But one will have to trek or go by horse about 14kms
up.
For more photos visit the link given below.
